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Vienna

Austria's cooking is great. If you like flummeries, pastries and sweets, it is the paradise on earth. These dishes are not necessarily served as a dessert, they can also be a complete main dish. The traditional venue for eating out in Vienna is the Beisl, an intimate neighbourhood place, somewhere between restaurant and pub, providing good home cooking and a cosy refuge for local beer drinkers. There are plenty of these both within and beyond the Ring. The best places to look are districts 6,7 and 8.

Vienna is also the true home of the traditional Kaffeehaus or café - largely a venue for good-value lunchtime food, afternoon coffee and cakes, and late-night drinking. Those within the Ring tend to be touristy and overprized, but many are dipping with atmosphere and continue to be patronized by the Viennese themselves. If you want to order in German/Austrian, make sure to pronounce "Kaffee" with a long and open "ee", like the end of "fiancé" (otherwise they will immediately think, you are German). Austria has a great choice in coffee, which names sound all a bit strange: "Wiener Melange", "Brauner" (coffe with milk), "mit Schlagobers" (with whipped cream) etc.

For food on the move, the Würstelstand is as big an institution in Vienna as anywhere else in Austria. Look out for Leberkäs, a slice of spicey meat sandwiched between two halves of a Semmel. One more advice: Go to the Naschmarkt - the city's main fruit and veg market off Karlsplatz. This is a great place to assemble a picnic or grab a tasty take-away, and also home to numerous cheap cafés attached to the various stalls.

 

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